Toilet training your new puppy

Toilet training is fundamental to a new pup’s introduction to family life. Start it the minute you get home with her.

Choose a toileting place away from the deck, thoroughfares and busy spots like the clothesline.

Give her plenty of opportunities to go to this place. Take her out to this spot before she has time to find another: as soon as she wakes from a snooze, after food, after play or if she starts to sniff or circle suspiciously.

While she is toileting say “wee” or “potty” so that she learns to toilet on command. This is useful for the last walk before bed or when travelling.

Positive reinforcement is the key to successful toilet training. Immediately reward her after she relieves herself. Praise her with a pat, “good girl” and, especially at first, give her a food treat. Try not to miss an opportunity for rewarding her for the right behaviour and she will soon learn to do the right thing.

Set an alarm to remind you to take her out again so she doesn’t make a mistake.

If she doesn’t go when you take her out, set a 10-15 minute alarm and keep her on lead,  in a crate or with you to prevent any mishaps.

Short term confinement in a crate inhibits elimination and many pups will toilet as soon as they are released. Take advantage of this by rushing her to the chosen place as soon as you open the crate.

If she soils inside ignore her and clean the area with a non-ammonia based cleaning product like Urine-off so she doesn’t use the same place again.

Punishment for toileting inside will associate toileting near you with trouble. She will avoid you and toilet training will be delayed.

Dental X rays

Nurse Ella lines up the new dental digital X ray unit with Lily’s molars. Crisp clear X rays of pets’ mouths enhance vets’ decision-making. No longer do we have to agonise over whether a tooth is healthy enough to leave or whether we should extract it to prevent mouth pain and infection. Nurse Ella will save Lily’s dental images to her record so that we can see if there has been any deterioration between dental treatments.

Digital imaging

Dr Helen admires Bull Mastiff George’s X ray on our new digital X ray system. The high quality of the X ray images increases the accuracy of our diagnoses. We are able to fine tune and individualise your pets’ body and dental X rays and save them directly to their computer records.  Copies of the X rays can also be sent electronically to veterinary imaging specialists and an opinion returned the same day.  Already many pets’ lives have been improved or saved by this leap forward in technology.

Doggy dementia

Dementia affects old dogs in the same way it affects some older people with declining brain function.

Signs of dementia:

  • Disorientation: staring into space, getting lost in the house or yard, getting stuck in corners or under furniture, standing at the wrong door to go out
  • Reduced interaction with human family members: not greeting owners or seeking attention, following people around the house or losing interest in household events
  • Loss of house-training: urinating or defecating in the house, not using the doggie door or not asking to go out to toilet
  • Erratic sleeping behaviour: waking, pacing or vocalizing at night, sleeping less at night and more during the day
  • Loss of learned behaviours
  • Slow and cautious gait

An aged dog exhibiting at least one of these signs more than once a week for at least a month has dementia.

Dogs showing any signs are often severely affected within 12-18 months.

Treatment

  • Diet:

Anti-oxidants delay and treat dementia. Antioxidants include Vitamin E, Vitamin C, Alpha-lipoic acid, L-carnitine and beta-carotene. Fruits and vegetables contain many of these.

Omega 3 fatty acids as found in fish oil or food supplements such as Nutricoat also help.

Hills b/d (brain diet) is a prescription diet that contains these nutrients.

  • Physical therapy:

Stimulate brain function and delay the onset of dementia with basic obedience training, scent discrimination tasks, safety-modified obstacle courses and hide and seek games.

Gentle walks or swimming delay loss of brain function as well as improve muscle function.

  • Environmental enrichment

Petting, brushing and massage stimulate the nerves and brains of old dogs. New toys, blinking lights, walks in new areas with new smells, and meeting new animals and people boost an old dog’s brain function and enjoyment of life.

Kidney failure

Dogs with failing kidneys drink a lot of water and produce large quantities of urine.

Old or damaged kidneys don’t eliminate all of the body’s waste products and cannot concentrate urine very well.

When is this likely to happen in my dog?

Chronic kidney failure is the result of ageing; it is simply a “wearing out” process.

Small dogs show signs from 10 years of age. Larger breed dogs’ kidneys may fail as early as 7 years of age. In some breeds there is a genetic predisposition to kidney failure.

What do I see if my dog’s kidneys are failing?

Dogs with kidney failure produce large volumes of dilute urine. This increases thirst in an effort to overcome dehydration.

As waste products build up in the blood they lose their appetite, are depressed, vomit, and have very bad breath. Ulcers form in the mouth. These signs of advanced kidney failure are called uraemia.

How is chronic kidney failure diagnosed?

  • Blood tests for the body’s waste products, urea and creatinine
  • Urine tests for concentrating and filtering ability, and to find infection

Can we treat kidney failure?

In some cases the kidneys are so worn out they cannot be revived.

With early diagnosis and appropriate treatment many dogs survive for many months or even years.

Treatment occurs in two phases. The first phase is to flush out the toxins with large quantities of intravenous fluids. Fluid therapy, also known as a drip, also replaces lost electrolytes, especially potassium. Drugs to control vomiting and diarrhea, and to treat infection are given as necessary.

The second phase of treatment reduces the kidneys’ workload by reducing dietary protein. This keeps toxic by-products of protein digestion as low as possible and makes your dog feel better. A special kidney or renal diet is the easiest and most effective way of doing this.

Cushing’s disease

What is Cushing’s Disease?

The adrenal glands overproduce cortisol in dogs with Cushing’s Disease. Cushing’s disease is also known as Hyperadrenocorticism.

What causes Cushing’s disease?

The three causes of Cushing’s Disease are:

  1. A pituitary gland tumour which overproduces the hormone that stimulates cortisol production in the adrenal glands. The size of the tumour and its malignancy varies widely. Signs of brain problems develop if the tumour is large, but this is unusual. Most dogs with this form of Cushing’s Disease live normal lives for many years as long as they take their medication and stay under close medical supervision.
  2. Excessive administration over long periods of time of synthetic cortisones like prednisolone, triamcinolone or dexamethasone causes Iatrogenic Cushing’s disease.
  3. An adrenal gland tumour is an uncommon cause of Cushing’s Disease. Surgical removal treats this form of the disease

How do I know if my dog has Cushing’s?

  • A marked increase in appetite
  • Increased water consumption and urination
  • Lethargy, panting and a poor hair coat
  • A pot-bellied or bloated abdomen

How is it diagnosed?

If we suspect Cushing’s Disease we run a blood test to check your dog’s general health.  An enzyme in the test called Alkaline Phosphatase (ALKP) is usually high in dogs with Cushings.

If ALKP is high then we do a Low Dose Dexamethasone test (LDDT) which will confirm or deny Cushings Disease.

To determine which type of Cushing’s disease your pet has, we ultrasound the adrenal glands and do an endogenous ACTH blood test.

Although some of these tests are expensive, they are necessary to allow us to accurately target the treatment.

 

Cruciate ligament injury

Cruciate ligament injury in the knee or stifle joint causes acute lameness in the dog.

The stifle joint opens and closes like a hinge. The cruciate ligament prevents the two bones of the hinge from sliding back and forth.

The ligament and joint deteriorate with age. A sudden stop or twist tears the weakened ligament. The dog cries and cannot bear weight. Some dogs remain unable to put the leg down, others improve to varying degrees.

Diagnosis

The vet diagnoses rupture of the cruciate ligament by demonstrating instability or a drawer sign of the stifle joint.  If the joint is very painful or the dog has strong leg muscles then a sedative or anaesthetic might be necessary to examine the joint thoroughly.

Treatment

Most dogs require surgery to relieve the pain and prevent future arthritis.  Inspection of the joint for cartilage damage, removal of the torn ligament and stabilisation of the joint with figure 8 sutures improves joint stability, reduces the development of arthritis and eliminates pain in small to medium sized dogs.

Restriction of activity for 3 months together with anti-inflammatory drugs may be adequate for smaller and lighter dogs. If the lameness does not improve significantly then the cartilage is probably damaged as well and surgery is necessary.

Referral to a specialist surgeon for a more complicated procedure is best for bigger or more active dogs.

Recovery

Full recovery from cruciate ligament surgery takes at least 3 months and the repaired knee will never be as good as new.

Recovery time is longer and the chance of rupture of the cruciate ligament in the other leg is increased in overweight dogs.  Please discuss about strategies for weight reduction with your vet or vet nurse.

Ear Infections

How common are ear infections in dogs?

Infection of the external ear canal is very common in dogs especially those with allergies or who have long or hairy ear canals like Cocker Spaniels, Miniature Poodles, Golden Retrievers or Old English Sheepdogs.

How do I know that my dog has an ear infection?

Dogs with ear infections flap and scratch their ears. The inside of the ear flap is red, inflamed and smelly. A black or yellowish discharge often develops.

Yeasts are the cause of most ear infections. They affect swimmers and those with long, narrow or hair filled ears that stay moist. Dogs with allergies to food or pollen also have warm, moist, inflamed ears that favour repeated infection.

When chronic ear infections are inadequately treated, more resistant bacteria can survive in the ear and are difficult to clear.

What about ear mites?

Ear mites cause a black discharge, scratching, and head shaking. They usually affect puppies or in contact adult dogs.

Can’t I just collect some medication?

There are several kinds of bacteria and at least one type of yeast that cause ear infections. Without knowing the kind of infection present, we do not know which medication to use.

Foreign bodies, like grass seeds, and tumours in the ear canal cause irritated ears, too. Treatment with medication alone will not resolve these problems.

The dog must also be examined to be sure that the eardrum is intact. Some medications result in loss of hearing if the eardrum is ruptured.

We examine a sample of the material from the ear canal under a microscope (cytology) to find which organism is the cause of the infection.

How are ear infections treated?

If there is a foreign body in the ear canal, we sedate the dog and remove it.

If there is a heavy build-up of debris we anæsthetise the dog and clean the canal.

We choose ear drops based on the type of organism we see in the discharge from the ear.

Flea control

Control fleas ON the dog:

  • Capstar or Comfortis tablets kill fleas and paralyse flea mouthparts preventing deposition of saliva.
  • Monthly applications of Advantage, Advocate, Advantix, Frontline, Revolution, or Comfortis throughout the year keep flea numbers as low as possible.
  • Flea powders, sprays, and shampoos kill the fleas present on your dog at the time of application but have little residual effect.

Control fleas IN the dog’s environment:

  • Professional fumigation of the house and yard will control egg, larval and pupal stages of the flea life cycle most effectively.
  • If you spray or flea bomb yourself repeat the application in 3-4 weeks to catch the next hatching of pupae.
  • Some products also contain growth regulators that prevent flea maturation.
  • Wash bedding in hot water and dry in the sun.
  • Vacuum carpets and furniture often.
  • Rake up leaves in shady places and provide outside kennels or hidey holes off the ground.
  • Flea larvae love dust so provide working dogs with concrete runs.

Do not be too quick to blame kennels for fleas on your dog. When your pets are gone pupae remain in their cocoon because the house is quiet and empty. When they return the vibrations, heat and light stimulate the emergence of adult fleas. They jump on dogs, cats, and even people looking for a blood meal.

Effective flea control depends on knowing the flea’s life cycle.

The flea life cycle

Adult fleas are only 5% of the entire flea population. The eggs they lay on the dog fall off into the dog’s environment. Flea eggs are pearly white and too small to see without magnification. They hatch into larvae in 1 to 10 days depending on how humid and hot it is.

Flea larvae eat organic debris and adult flea faeces. They avoid direct sunlight and burrow into carpet fibres, grass, branches, leaves, or soil.

Dry conditions kill larvae. Outdoor larval development occurs where the ground is shaded and moist and where flea-infested pets spend a significant amount of time. Indoors, larvae survive best in the carpet or in cracks in the floor.

After 5 to 11 days larvae pupate. While in the cocoon pupae are resistant to insecticides and continue to emerge for 3 months despite insecticide application.

Pupae emerge as adult fleas in another 5-10 days if stimulated by the vibration of passing pets, physical pressure, carbon dioxide, or heat.

When the adult flea emerges it moves towards body heat, movement, and exhaled carbon dioxide. Following the first blood meal, female fleas begin egg production within 48 hours and continue for 100 days.

This entire life cycle (adult flea – egg – larva – pupa – adult) takes 7 – 21 days depending on temperature and humidity conditions.

Flea control depends on knowing this life cycle.