Yearly Archives: 2011

Caring for your Dog, general

Bringing your dog into Tasmania

Tasmania is the only state in Australia that is free of hydatid tapeworms. And they want to keep it that way. So if you visiting Tasmania with your dog – and several of our clients do – then it is worthwhile reading Tasmania DPI’s brochure about Bringing a dog into Tasmania.

In short,

Before a dog can enter Tasmania, its owner must have evidence that it has been treated with praziquantel at a dose rate of 5 mg/kg body weight within 14 days before entry to Tasmania. The evidence can be:

  • A statement by a vet;
  • A statutory declaration by the owner; or
  • Other evidence of treatment (such as the pill packet) that is carried by whoever accompanies the dog into Tasmania.

So you can treat your dog yourself and hang on to the packet, or come in to the practice and we’ll worm your dog and give you a statement to wave at the authorities.

 

Cats, Diseases of cats, Internal Diseases of Cats

Snotty-nosed cats

Snotty-nosed and snuffly cats are difficult to live with. Their owners put up with sneezes and snot all over the house, as well as snuffles and grumbles all day and half the night.

The causes of sinusitis and rhinosinusitis are also difficult for vets to diagnose accurately and even more difficult to treat effectively.

Inflammation and infection spread rapidly from cats’ throats to adjacent structures, such as the middle ear, frontal sinuses, nose and tympanic bullae. These cavities are difficult to reach with medical or surgical treatments.

Feline mucus is also thicker than human mucus and medication has a hard time penetrating the mucus to get to the offending microbes.

Feline Herpesvirus is the most common initiating cause of chronic rhinitis and rhinosinusitis. It causes chronic airway inflammation and swelling, destroys the normal lining of the nasal cavity and upsets the normal mucus layers. The nasal cavity cannot remove foreign particles or the abnormal mucus and the sinuses become blocked. Bacteria leap in and set up infections making the situation even worse.

Drugs to reduce the mucus and the swelling in the sinuses help a bit. We treat the bacterial infection with antibiotics but are still left with Herpesvirus and all the damage it does. Herpesvirus sinusitis soon flares up into full blown bacterial sinusitis again. Some cats respond well to antiviral drugs but others keep getting intermittent sinusitis.

Nastier causes of similar signs are Cryptococcosis, a fungal disease, and cancer, commonly lymphoma, adenocarcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma. These are difficult to distinguish on X-ray but CT or MRI are very helpful, if they are available. A biopsy clears up any doubts. A blood test is available for Cryptococcosis.

Bad teeth and infected tooth roots sometimes make cats snuffly. A dental inspection and X-ray under general anaesthetic allow targeted and successful treatment.

Occasionally a cat breathes in a grass seed or other foreign body. Usually nasal discharge is from one side only and there is some bleeding.

 

Cats, Today's News

Living with cat allergies – and cats

Do you suffer wheezing, sneezing, watery eyes and itchy eyes and arms around your cat? For me, these allergy symptoms are a small price to pay for the company of my cats – although some mornings when I wake with a heavy head and red eyes I wonder!

Cat allergies are not caused by cat hair as most of us assume. They are caused by a protein found in cat saliva, urine and skin cells, or dander. The immune systems of people with allergies mistake this harmless protein for a dangerous invader like a virus or bacteria and mount a full scale attack on it.

Here are some tips for minimising our allergy symptoms without giving up our cats.

  • Make your bedroom a cat free zone
  • Reduce the load of cat allergens in your bedroom by washing or replacing bedding, curtains and pillows. Then cover pillows and mattress with allergen-proof covers.
  • Open windows wide at least once a day to air the house and dilute the allergen load
  • Send your cat outside, preferably into an outdoor run, to disperse some of the dander
  • Eliminate allergen traps such as carpet, rugs and upholstered furniture as you can. Carpet accumulates up to 100 times more allergens than vinyl or wood flooring. If you can’t take it up steam clean it regularly and vacuum with a high efficiency particulate arresting (HEPA) filter or us and allergen-proof vacuum cleaner bag.
  • Brush your cat outside and/or in an outside enclosure to minimise contamination of your home with dander
  • Wipe the dander away with a moist cloth or wipe to remove saliva and dander.
  • Spray the house with anti-allergen sprays
  • Use a low dust cat litter and ask non-allergic family members to clean the litter box frequently
  • Take the antihistamines, decongestants, eye drops and aerosol inhalers that your doctor suggests. Antioxidants such as Vitamins C and E also have anti-allergen effects.

 

 

 

Behaviour, Dogs, Today's News

Afraid of storms?

Everytime we have a wild storm – and we’ve had plenty this season – dogs come to us with injuries from escaping their yards, destroying the garden and getting involved in accidents. Some dogs panic as soon as the sky darkens and the wind picks up, others cower when the thunder, lightning or rain arrive.

Signs of storm phobia range from mild – pacing, shaking, drooling, hiding – to extreme – blind panic and hyperthermia, escape from the house yard, and destruction of garden or house items. While trying to escape the storm panicking dogs are hit by cars, attacked by other dogs, injured on fences and fallen trees, and lost many kilometers from home.

During the storm you can help your pet cope and minimize his distress.

Keep any medication prescribed by your veterinarian on hand. Event medications work best if given at least 30 minutes prior to the stressful situation. Some severely affected animals need daily medication during the storm season.

Pitfalls to avoid:

– Never use punishment as it will only increase your pet’s distress.

– Avoid petting and consoling your pet during the storm as he may interpret the your protection as a reward for his behavior.

– Try to remain calm as a model for your pet.

Useful interventions:

– If possible, don’t leave your pet alone during the storm.

– Create a safe and secure environment for your pet: a dark room screened from lightning flashes or a room where sound is muted.

– If your pet has found a hiding place, do not drag him out. He may become aggressive.

– Loud music, music with a strong beat or white noise such as an exhaust fan muffles distressing noises for some pets.

– Distract your pet with a favourite toy, a game or some obedience training.

– Every time there is a clap of thunder give your pet a treat. If he is too anxious to take a treat smear peanut butter or cheese spread on the gums. After many repetitions he will start to positively associate the noise with the treat.

– A head collar and leash calms some dogs and gives you control.

– Train your dog to relax on cue on a mat or bed using reward based techniques. Gradually delay the reward, until your dog can lie calmly on the mat for extended periods. Only bring the mat out for training sessions, so that it becomes associated with a relaxed down-stay. Bring the mat out during storms/fireworks or other times the dog is anxious.

– Alternatively create a positive association with a particular place. Feed him, give him treats, and play with him in this special area. Your dog will associate feeling safe and security with this place and may take themselves off to their safe area in a storm. This is helpful if you are not home during a storm. Never use the area for punishment or time-outs.

– Recordings of storms can be used for systematic desensitization, although many dogs do not respond fearfully to recordings. They only show fear of storms when associated cues like wind, rain, darkening skies, or changes in barometric pressure are present.

– Dog Appeasement Pheromone (DAP) mimics a natural pheromone that calms and relaxes dogs. It comes as a diffuser that plugs into a power outlet and is left on over the storm period.

Medication

Before starting on anxiety medication we do a full physical examination and blood tests to rule out any medical problems and to ensure that the liver and kidney are functioning normally.

Medication helps your dog to experience a storm without feeling anxious. He learns that the noise is not so scary and will respond better to the recommendations above. Once he is consistently relaxed during a storm the dose is gradually reduced until he is completely weaned off the drug.

Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

Tips for training success

Use your pup’s name before every command to attract her attention.  She then knows that the commands are meant for her.

If she doesn’t obey, consider why not:

  • Have you got her attention? Do not shout. Try clapping, making a different noise or changing the tone of your voice.  You must be more exciting than the distraction.
  • Has the training session been too long? Pups have short attention spans. It is better to stop and start again later than to persist with a tired pup.
  • Does she understand the command and what you expect of her?

Training should be a positive experience.  Use rewards all the time to start with.[singlepic id=531 w=320 h=240 float=right]  Once you know that she understands the command vary the frequency and the size of the rewards.  Work on the poker machine principle “if she never knows how much the reward will be, or when it will come she will keep trying to win a reward.”

Train your puppy in lots of different places and at different times. You don’t want a dog who only comes and sits at 6pm – before dinner!

Make training part of every day’s routine.

 

Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

Discouraging biting

All puppies play bite and mouth their owners and other pets in the family.  Discourage it because it will continue into adulthood and become painful and unpleasant.

If your pup bites you too hard, even accidentally, stop playing, say “no” or “ah-ah” and walk away. Allow him to calm down and play more quietly next time. If you are consistent he will learn that the consequence of biting is no playmate.


Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

Good mealtime manners

Manners maketh dog – as well as man! Good mealtime manners are vital to a healthy relationship between you and your dog.

Teach your pup to hold a sitting position while a bowl of food is placed on the ground in front of her. With your pup on a short lead in your left hand, ask her to “sit”. Lower the food bowl in your right hand. At the same time use your left hand to block her moving forward.

If she stands raise the bowl and encourage her to sit again.

Repeat using small movements until she remains sitting while you place the food bowl on the ground.

Loosen the lead and say “free” or “ok” to allow access to the food.

You can also take some food from the bowl to hold her attention and then drop it back into the bowl as you say “ok”.

Remain with her during the meal so that she doesn’t become possessive about food. Place your hand in the food bowl and encourage her to eat around your hand.

Add extra yummy food to her bowl while she is eating, so that having you around while she is eating means added bonuses.

 

Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

Teaching your pup to heel

Walking well on a lead is the most valuable skill your pup will ever learn. Enjoyable outings depend on your dog following you and not dragging you around.

If your dog pulls ahead stand still until the lead goes loose before walking on. Treat him when he stays by your side. Persist, because if you give in and let him pull ahead he will take you where he wants to go, which rewards him with what he wants and ensures that he will do the same next time too.

Call his name to get his attention and make it fun to follow you. Change direction and encourage him to follow with a treat. Every time he stays next to you say “yes” or “good” and give a treat. This makes it clear that you want him to walk next to you.

Next encourage him to sit next to you every time you stand still. Stop walking, say “sit” and give a treat when he sits. Eventually he will sit when you stop even without a reward. This is vital near roads and bicycle paths.

 

Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

Teaching your dog to stay

The key to succeeding with the “stay” command is to make small steps of success and not giant leaps of failure! Break the exercise into three components – distance, duration and distraction. Add one at a time and build on successes.

Start teaching “stay” on lead. Train in a quiet location with no distractions.  Do not move anywhere at first. Ask your dog to stay, place your flat hand in front of him and stand up straight beside him. Count to five. If he hasn’t moved in this time say “yes” or “good boy” and give him a treat. Practise this three or four times before extending the stay to 10 seconds. (Duration 10 seconds, Distance 0, Distraction 0)

Add the challenge of distance: tell him to “stay” and use the same hand command. Take a small step out to the side for one second and then move back in. If he doesn’t move say “yes” or “good” and give a small treat and praise. Practise this three or four times before moving further out. (1sec Duration, 1 step Distance, 0 Distraction)

With your dog on lead gradually move further and further out until you are confident you can drop the lead. Do this in a safe environment in case your dog decides to take advantage of his freedom.

Only progress one of the Ds at a time, so that your dog always wins the game you are playing. Either increase the time he waits or increase the distance between you, but not both at the same time. This seems slow to us but your pup learns more rapidly and permanently through repeated successes and having fun.  Keep your training sessions short and end on a high note so neither of you get frustrated.


Behaviour, Caring for your Dog, Dogs, Training tips

How to teach your dog to come to you

Only ever use “come” in connection with a positive experience.  If you punish a pup after saying “come” he will run away instead of coming when you call.

Teach “come” in a quiet, safe place like your backyard or hallway. Start with your pup on lead. Call him when you know he is guaranteed to come anyway, for a meal or a walk. Reward him with treats as soon as he comes.

Next station two people with treats, one up each end of the yard or hall. Take turns to attract your dog’s attention with his name, clicks or whistles. When he looks toward the caller and you are sure he will come towards the caller only, the caller should command him to “come”.  This builds a strong word-action association. The caller should sound excited while the other person remains still and quiet. When he comes show him how pleased you are by saying “good boy” and giving pats and treats.

The next step is to ask him to “sit” when he returns to you.  This gives you added control and stops him jumping up on you.

Practise this back and forth, but end before your dog gets bored.

At the next session run a short distance and encourage him to follow. Only move to more challenging locations when you are sure of success. Try on the oval on lead before you try off lead. A long retractable lead or a long piece of rope increases distance and distraction levels but still guarantees his safety and return. Before you allow him off lead he must feel that coming to you is more exciting and rewarding than playing with another dog or chasing a cat.